Garlic Clove Separator


By Allen Dong, I-Tech, PO Box 413 Veneta, OR 97487

Public domain--no copyright.

Garlic is planted using individual cloves. Individual cloves can be separated from the bulb by hand or with a pair of large diameter rubber-faced rollers (Figure 1) that partially crush the bulbs to release the cloves (W. Sims et al. Growing Garlic in California. University of California Cooperative Extension Leaflet 2948. December 1976). Partially crushed garlic cloves are more subject to diseases and should be planted as soon as possible after separation.


Figure 1. Rubber faced rollers for separating garlic cloves.

A. PVC pipe roller, 10-inch diameter x 6 inches, schedule 40

B. Wood spoke, 2 x 8 x 10 inches

C. Steel shaft, 5/8-inch diameter x 14 inches, cold rolled

D. Neoprene foam backing, ¼ inch thick

E. Rubber facing, 1/8 inch thick

F. Wood support frame

G. Pillow block bearing, 5/8 inch bore

H. Bicycle crank, cotter type

I. Steel plate with set screw and lag bolts
 
 
 
 

 Two 10-inch diameter, schedule 40, PVC pipe sections are used as rollers (Figure 1, item A). Reinforce each roller with a wooden spoke (B) made from 2 x 8 x 10 inch board. Cut the spoke to fit inside the PVC pipe, and drill a 5/8-inch hole at the center of the board for a 5/8-inch roller shaft (C). Drill and countersink holes at the mid section of the PVC pipe and secure the spoke to the pipe with flat head sheet metal screws. Insert the 5/8-inch diameter x 14 inch steel shaft (C) through the center of the spoke. Etch the outside surface of the PVC roller (A) with acetone or methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) or PVC primer. Attach neoprene foam backing (D), 1/4 x 6 x 36 inches to the roller (A) using rubber contact adhesive. Attach the rubber sheet (E), 1/8 x 6 x 36 inches to the neoprene foam backing (D) using rubber contact adhesive. Make a rectangular wooden frame (F) 12 x 28 inches using 2 x 8 inch board. The two rollers (A) are mounted on to the frame (F) using 4 pillow block bearings (G) and steel shafts (C). The rubber-faced rollers (A) are separated from each other with a 1-inch gap to allow individual garlic cloves to pass through. Use a larger gap between the rollers for large cloves. The bicycle crank handle (H) is installed on one of the roller shaft (C). File a notch on the shaft to fit the bicycle crank's cotter pin, and secure the crank to the shaft. A typical 10 speed, cotter type bicycle crank arm will fit snugly on a 5/8-inch diameter shaft. Secure the shaft (C) to the wooden spoke (B) using the ½ x 1 ½ x 3 inch steel plates (I). Drill a 5/8-inch shaft hole through the face center of the plate, and two ¼ inch holes for the lag bolts. Drill 13/64-inch setscrew hole from the edge of the steel plate perpendicular to the shaft hole. Tap the setscrew hole with 1/4-inch thread. The steel plate is inserted on the shaft, attached to the spoke using lag bolts, and then locked on to the shaft using a ¼ inch setscrew.

Rubber foam, sheet, and adhesives are available from rubber suppliers; pillow block bearings are available from bearing supplier and hardware stores; and PVC pipe is available from pipe and irrigation suppliers.

The 10-inch diameter x 6-inch long rubber faced rollers easily cracks one garlic bulb at a time on the downward stroke of the bicycle crank handle.
 
 

Acknowledgements: Technical assistance from Roger J. Edberg, University of California, Santa Cruz; materials provided, in part, by Larry Fisher, Scrap-Tech, PO Box 2231, Davis CA 95617. (1/97)
 
 
 

Hand Operated Garlic Trimmer


By Allen Dong, I Tech, PO Box 413, Veneta Oregon 97487

This invention was declared public domain on August 7, 1999 --a gift to humanity.

After garlic bulbs are harvested and dried, the roots and tops are trimmed off with pruning shears, scissors or knives. A hand operated garlic trimmer is made using a hedge shear attached to a cutting board (Figures 1 and 2). The long handle on the hedge shear provides extra leverage compared to pruning shears. The handle is lifted upward at an angle to press the cutting blades together as the shear closes. This assist in cutting the foliage rather than folding the foliage over the blade. More than one bulb can be trimmed at a time. The garlic trimmer can also cut corncobs.

Construction of the garlic trimmer is as follows:

First, select your hedge shear carefully. Look for a hedge shear with blades that are ground with a slight curve (e.g. Corona model HS 3911). When such shear is fully shut, the curvature can be seen as a gap between the two blades near the pivot end, while the distal end is closed tightly. The curved blades allows the cutting edges of the two blades to press against each other continuously as the shear closes and to cut rather than fold plant materials over the blade. Serrated and wavy blades keep the material from slipping as the shear closes.

Next, weld a steel angle (1 ¼ x 1 ¼ x 3/16 inch thick, 3 ½ inches long) on one of the blade, depending on your preference for left or right-handed operation. The welding requires some care. Usually, blades are heat treated only near the cutting edge to harden it, while the bulk of the blade remains unbrittle. Precaution must be taken to avoid altering this blade edge hardness by over heating the edge. One way is by using low hydrogen E7018 welding electrode with DC+ electrode polarity. The steel angle is welded at the distal end of the blade to keep the heat-affected zone of the weld away from the cutting edge near the pivot. Alternatively, the steel angle can be brazed with oxy acetylene, using a very small torch tip. The cutting edge of the blade can be clamp to a heavy iron vice to conduct the heat away from the edge. Lining the vice jaws with multi folded layers of aluminum foil increases the thermal conductivity between blade and vice.

Lastly, drill two ¼ inch diameter holes, 2 ½ inches apart on the 1 ¼ face of the steel angle and bolt the hedge shear to a cutting board with 1/4-inch diameter bolts. The cutting board is made from a 2 x 8 inch board, 10 inches long. Secure the cutting board to a tabletop with C clamps or secure to a post with a mounting bracket and C clamps.

If the garlic trimmer were to be manufactured, the hedge shear would be made with countersunk boltholes on both blades. This would permit the hedge shear to be bolted on to a cutting board for both left- or right-handed operation and a handle attached to the upper blade to push down instead of lifting up.
 
 

Materials:

Optional post mounting bracket:

Figure 1. Garlic trimmer clamped to post and Figure 2. Exploded view ofGarlic trimmer with optional post mounting bracket.
 
 
 
 

Note: Mention of product name does not imply endorsement by I Tech.

Acknowledgement: Technical assistance from Roger J. Edberg, University of California, Santa Cruz, and William Chancellor, Emeritus professor, University of California, Davis.